e30 5 lug swap

This is arguably the biggest, badest, and best rear setup.

You can easily spot the difference in the shape around outer ball-joint. I then disassembled, cleaned, greased, and reassembled the parking brake hardware on the 318ti arms. 325is) share the same spring diameter! Bonus of Z3 hubs, you can easily run many e36/e46 staggered wheels and not shy away for putting a lot of meat (tire) on them. Since finalizing the wiring as stated above, I have done one run with the car and the ABS light (Anti-Lock light) has not come on and the ABS unit has not engaged improperly. The way this works is, that it moves entire strut assembly over outer ball-joint forward.

Untouched ABS system. In short, the toe can go equally either way and the camber can go in just a bit more or out a lot (having my alignment done will set these for certain). This method can be used as resolution for using standard E36 spindles OR using stock E30 control arms, BUT NOT BOTH.

Learn more. Right to left and left to right, makes them bolt right up.

or MZ331-12-2-228-465 (left) and 31-12-2-228-466 (right), These are standard E30/E36 control arms compared to proper E36 M3 control arms. If you want to swap to 5 lug on your e30 you need this kit to add caster (place the wheel in the center of the front fender).

-BMW wheels, Radial Spoke Style 32, 17x7.5 et41 (36111091869), -215/40/ZR17 BFGoodrich G-Force Sport tires, -'97 E36 M3 complete front strut and brake aseemblies (USED), -'97 318ti complete rear trailing arm and brake assemblies (USED), -Ireland Engineering E30/Z3 rear camber/toe adjustments kits (02adjrt + e30adjsf), -I.E. I also replaced the rear shock mounts with another set of E30 cabriolet mounts since I had everything all apart; my old ones (which were already cabby mounts) had about 50,000 miles on them and you could see the wear and cracks. NOTE: this method yields about 5mm more fender clearance if used with the same wheels as Method 2, so a SLIGHTLY lower offset wheel may be used. I hit them with cleaner, followed by red caliper paint, and let them sit for a few days. You MUST use 96+ E36 M3 control arms and offset CABs (Control Arm Bushings). Notice camber plate and where shock is mounted. This setup allows for E36/E46 fitment wheels (approximately et41 @ 7.5" width).

The brake lines came apart… messy but easy; I plugged them with plastic bolts or fuel hose with a screw in the end to stop the leaking. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139412. The trailing arms, brakes (calipers, discs, heat/dust shields, etc. 2. e30 Ball Joints. Bent parts are no fun to work with, not to mention, potentially dangerous.

In a perfect world, if finances allow, you'll be going this route. Putting legends to rest with logic: Z3(I6) models are wider, than their 4-banger counterparts. Quantity. No need to find rare parts at the junkyard. Depending on how resourceful you are, this swap will cost significantly less. The MZ3 (etc.) TA's themselves are identical to 84-85 325e with one exception: ABS bung is shaved down to fit E36 ABS sensor. I couldn't imagine spending $170+ per side on control arms, so I looked for other possibilities... Parts Needed:

Have to splice-in ABS sensors. Vice of Z3 hubs: you have to do a lot of rear quarter work to fit ET20/23 wheels. Pros: cheap, $250 gets you in. Get all these bolts with your parts, because all of these bolts are high strength and cost a pretty penny from dealership. The new Ireland Engineering hyper green urethane bushings just slide in firmly (a rubber mallet may be your friend). Again, with random pullers and chisels and such, I was able to get the old sub-frame bushings out. e36/7 - e36 (3-series) and e37 (z3 chassis), z3(I6) - 6-cylinder Z3 (2.5L, 2.8L and 3.0L). The E30 used in this conversion is a late U.S. model: 1990 325is.

Warning of wisdom: I have yet to receive/find a set of stock E36 struts that aren't blown. When working with the parking brake hardware, I was careful not to lose the little pin that holds the cable onto the hinge piece that pushes the shoes outward. This method is indeed the most costly, the most difficult for which to obtain parts, and the most modest upgrade to the front brakes. I set my original inner holes (now for camber) lower but not at the bottom of the slotted area, so that I can add just a little more camber still, or remove a lot. Some even resort to running higher offset wheels with spacers.

Also, my bearing caps must have been made at different times or locations because the hole at the top of the left side bearing cap was not the same size as the right side one. The front brakes got the same treatment as the rear: lubing, assembling, torquing. This method allows the original rear E30 ABS sensors to remain untouched. The sub-frame and arms came off next after taking off the rocker panel allen bolts and the huge nuts located just behind them, underneath the car. Used '96+ E36 M3 control arms from your local BMW shop's scrap bin. The E30 harness has a 2-wire system, whereas the E36 M3 has a 3-wire system. Late one night I started ripping into the front end. Why does this work? METHOD 3: COMPLETE Z3 1.9L (4 cylinder) TRAILING ARM ASSEMBLY. While I was in there, I also put in new E30 parking brake cables. If (like me) you've sourced used arms, remember that MZ3 models came with control arms stamped 465/466, and they are exactly the same as E36 M3 control arms. 1.

In order to increase the size of the break discs up to the 325 mm the calipers, caliper holders and discs have to be changed by the ones of an 330 e46 either petrol or diesel. Prices on these control arms aren't low. It's very easy to lose count and spend more money than your E30 is worth. FIT ON BMW E30 ( 318, 325, i, is, e, es ) and more ! When "complete assemblies" or similar terms are used below, it is assumed all relevant items are included that would be known to a fairly competent, mechanically inclined individual; for example, "brakes" would include: calipers, caliper carriers, guide pins, brake pads, brake wear sensors, brake lines, nuts and bolts, anti-rattle springs, etc.

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